Today's lesson: Not all "outdoor markets" are outside, and not all are cheaper than the supermarket.
This morning I visited the market in the 10th arrondissement called Saint-Quentin. It is about a 20 minute walk from my apt, a little farther than Barbes. In the hopes of finding cheap prices and good quality in the same place, I have begun exploring the other markets around me.
I had a bit of trouble finding the market because I was looking for a square or a section of road that was filled with the awnings covering each of the little stalls, full of people and produce. When I finally asked someone to direct me to it, they pointed to a building with large glass doors opening to the street. Above the doors was a sign that I had completely missed - as I approached from the backside and was looking for tents, not signs. The sign read in very large type: Marche St.-Quentin. Doh.
The market itself is very pleasant. There were not a lot of shoppers, nor a lot of vendors. It is very small and all of the vendors are permanently installed. In addition to the produce there are several wine sellers, butchers, a cheese vendor, flower sellers, and a very small hardware shop. It is lit mostly by the numerous skylights overhead, and in the center of it all I found a small string quartet playing the soundtrack to our sunday morning shopping.
The prices however were less pleasant, and clearly reflected the vendors status as permanent installations, likely paying rent for their space. I spent 10€ and returned with only three handfuls of un-cracked walnuts, 5 tomatoes on the vine, 2 medium sized eggplants, 7 small blood oranges, and a bulb of garlic.
I have concluded that the markets are not as a rule cheaper than the supermarkets, and the best way to approach my market purchases is to visit Barbes 1x per week, choosing my purchases carefully, and then fill out the rest with a visit to another market - ideally one that will be less expensive then St.-Quentin. Beginning next week, I will put this plan into action and run it through the experiment process. Living cheap in Paris is clearly a very delicate science.
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